You would need to put the boiler heater element between the controller terminals 2 and 3. Hi Brian. . I found that carefully pushing the boiler up gives better access to the thermostat, either from above, or by reaching up from below. and our Thanks! Works on both US 110V and EU 220V machines.Parts existing in the video:LED light kit: https://coffee-sensor.com/product/gaggia-classic-or-pro-water-tank-led-. Close the PID enclosure, and attach it to the side of the Classic. Hi Chris. The connector is on the back of the machine, where mains power is tapped with a piggyback connector and goes to the PID. Thus brewing circuit needs to be connected directly to the heating element, not over steaming circuit. You could definitely drill out the adapter a bit to get the thermocouple to fit. Any ideas? Gaggia Classic Pro/2019 complete wires and controller PID kit - 1/32DIN. I opted to follow my connections according to your picture, rather than that text. Did you have to alter your thermocouple at all to get it to fit into the adapter, like removing the cap on the end or something? The thermocouple connects to terminals 6 and 7. Remove the cover assembly and filler funnel by unscrewing the two small screws at the rear of the top. I hope it helps some EU folks not spending extra hours on debugging this minor EU-US model difference . Feel free to hang out, learn a bit, meditate, ride a bike, or perhaps it's just time to move on. I have to mention that coffee taste is good, not harsh or bitter. Please note that I'm only using the PID to control the brew temperature. START NOW KIT-GG Installation Guide Version 1.3 Auber Instruments, 730 Culworth Manor, Alpharetta, GA 30022 e-mail: info@auberins.com Tel: 770-569-8420 www.auberins.com This is a PID controller kit installation guide distributed solely to our clients, who have purchased the KIT-GG kit. Hi Chris, I appreciate your tutorials on the PID install. Do you think its going to blow my machine if I dont do correctly? I have installed the supply cable for PID unit using piggyback spade connectors. Leave as much of the thermal grease in place as possible. I have to turn the set point on the PID down to about 85C to stop it boiling and getting steam and a great deal of sputter out of the portafilter. I went with an insulated PT100. My P value is quite a lot different than yours. Make sure that all the new and repositioned wires are cleanly routed away from the boiler and pump and any uninsulated connectors. Hi Andrue. I think one of either is the one which Shades of Coffee is using. I am going into speculation mode here I wonder if your Gaggia came with the steam and brew thermostat positions reversed? No gross taste. For espresso, 9 bars is the generally preferred pressure. Hello again, I found out that connection I made was wrong. We have an earth leakage wiring system in our house, but in many countries, these are not standard. The LED on the SSR is functioning but no current can be seen. The default target temperature on the PID will almost certainly not be correct. Cross referencing with the with the manual confirmed that the stickers had been reversed. I love the Lego enclosure idea. I dont want to void my warranty. Hi Kez. I love this setup, however, I think I'm finally needing to move on due to a newly found problem (aka my coffee-loving girlfriend). Be careful, the edges of the hole in the chassis are very sharp. The little red collar shows the location. Possibly not the optimal position but was really easy to install and I knew Id only be getting a relative indicative temperature anyway. Autotuning had resulted in shot instability up to 10 degrees during a shot probably because conditions during standby and during brewing are very different than each other. If anyone is 3d printing the enclosure and doesnt want to tape or otherwise attach it to the Gaggia, I have made these small hooks that can be glued on to the enclosure: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4938828. I placed the SSR toward the left side of the back panel if facing the front of the machine. But Ive downloaded the wiring diagram for my machine. They are easy to unlock to get to all of the other settings, there are plenty of instructions on how to do this out there, but I didnt really need to go there. From what I have read, the PID with the additional steam mode option does not improve things much. Please make sure you've downloaded them prior to uploading the code to your Arduino of choice. Hi Chris, I completed the whole project both for brewing for PID and steaming via alarm. Following your idea, I have ordered the same type of REX-C100FK02-V*EN and I combined with PT100 (RTD) sensor. Pull the steam wand up and out of the Classic, and set it aside. Thats an awesome enclosure. I am glad this article helped. Hi Chris, The way I wired the PID leaves it powered on as long as the main power switch is on. Not sure why that was the case. Because the wiring connections can vary between manufacturers, you should bench-test your setup before final assembly. The enclosures purpose is first to protect you from the mains current, and second, to make it easier to attach the PID to the Gaggia. Youre probably fine with either one. If you have never done this before, know that you are working with live household current, and this can kill you. The image I used is wrong and confusing, and I have now updated it. Most guides recommend connecting the SSR to the Gaggias (metal) body with some thermal paste, and this mount then serves as a heat sink. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LODGP2E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1, BOX Left or right side if facing the front of the machine? as a cheap indicator to assist with surfing. K type thermocouple, 0-500, 2m cable (6 feet). My problem is that since installing the mod, my machine gets way too hot and boils. Thanks, I see what you mean. This is the setup that I have assembled two days ago. And anything is going to be a huge improvement over the thermostat that the PID replaces. But I wondered if anyone has had the same problem and already found the answer! Chris thank you so much. Try powering the PID directly from mains power, with just the thermocouple connected (disconnect the SSR). This process involves working with potentially lethal mains-level voltages. Your email address will not be published. From the factory, the GC has two thermostats, one for brew, which the thermocouple + PID + SSR replaces, and one for steam, which stays untouched. Are the steps here suitable for older machines like mine? This would also allow you to switch to PID-controlled brew mode simply by lowering the PID temperature. What you do get from the PID as per this guide in steam mode is the ability to see exactly what the temperature of the boiler is, so you can time your steaming to start during a heating cycle, which essentially gives you unlimited steam. Is this just a matter of adjusting the offset of the PID? Current Status. The PID will show the temperature, and be somewhat confused by its inability to reach its setpoint, however the PID is bypassed in the same way when the GCP is in steam mode. I deliberately avoided looking at the Mr Shades kits and instructions when I wrote this article, I dont want to steer people away from them. As for your PID always remaining on, it looks like you wired it to the unswitched mains, instead of the switched power. Did you have any problems or stumbled upon anything unexpected? Do not over-tighten the adapter, it only needs to be finger-tight. I wondered if you ended up testing both in the end. Work fast with our official CLI. This commit does not belong to any branch on this repository, and may belong to a fork outside of the repository. Despite the K02 indicating K-type, it was advertised as supporting multiple types including PT100. Most likely they will have the same connector types as the REX-C100, but its always possible that you will need different connectors depending on what you end up ordering. I formatted the table, its very useful. If the wiring was done correctly, the PID should power up when the Classic is turned on. Note: I fully tested the PID, SSR and thermocouple on the workbench before final installation. When I put everything back together, my machine started shorting out and tripping the circuit breaker on . Glad this writeup helped. When I finished, the whole C100 display just got current only for a sec, then it went out. This design is intended to be as simple as possible in terms of the installation, and requires minimal modification to the Gaggia machine. One last question: Auber and Mr Shades are calling their sensors PT100 while mine is K type thermocouple. For the sake of piece of mind, I have ordered last night a K type thermocouple in order to replace the RTD P100 and close the open loop in my head about PID type and sensor. It would be great to see how the machine is behaving without the PID, to get a baseline. Because the PID runs on mains voltages, an enclosure is required. Hi Rusty. So this suggests that the machine is getting much hotter and I reduced the the set point to 95deg from your recommendation of 103degC. Apologies for the long questions, thanks in advance! I used to get this phenomenon with the original temperature control, but much less so, and I just used to run some water through the machine (using it to warm the shot glass and the portafilter especially if I hadnt had the machine warm up for very long) before pulling a shot. Hi Murat. Whole Latte Love has a new video about preinfusion on the classic. I ran the Autotuning function couple of times and I am always getting the following values for P, I and D parameters: P=620 , I=32, D=8. I am not surprised, Mr Shades runs an honest business, and those parts are being offered at low prices. The GC comes from the factory with a simple thermostat that turns on at a certain pre-set temperature, and turns off at another pre-set temperature. Remove the thermostat. My theory at the moment would be that due to the PID control the heater is sometimes on at higher temperatures. Maybe this will help? This guide should generally also apply to the 2013 GC, but you must assume that any of the switch wiring that I describe will be different for your model year. Thanks so much for the awesome guide! There's a circuit diagram included in the repo. Also, the PID generates almost no heat, because the work is done by the SSR, and this is heat-sinked to the Gaggia. I managed the brew side PID and digging in for the steaming side, using PID alarm function of my XMT 7100 unit. I know wiring might be different colours but is everything in the same place? Ill dismantle on a cleaning weekend and test the thermocouple again. The best part is I am only in about $40 on my kit compared to around $150 for the pre made kits. Trim, terminate and connect the wires you routed out the back of the Classic to the PID. My plan is to install the Rex C100 first using your instructions. Connect the two leads you removed from the original thermal switch to the switched AC side of the SSR. I was able to create one using Lego bricks sitting around in the basement. You may need to extend the leads depending on where you decide to mount the SSR. The cup warmer does seem a bit hotter than before (but have only used twice since installing, so Ill have to pay attention). Chris, i read some comments here about steam. THIS ASSUMES YOUR COMPETENT WORKING WITH AC CIRCUITS. But follow chriss advice and be careful and you should be OK. And also use a rubber grommet to route your wires through the slots in the back of the chassis. But it will require some dismantling of the work you have done. You would probably blow the fuse in this controller/SSR within seconds. 3-Connect the other cable to the terminal on the on off switch, which is on top of or below the Live cable. I dont own a multimeter. Hi Kraken. Have you got any ideas what might be going on? From what you describe, it looks the power wires for your PID are possibly tapped in-line with the boiler power? I had to manually enable autotuning on my REX-C100 and i dont know if other values are screwed up or if its something else, since it really does seem like the boiler is getting power in bypass of whatever the PID is doing. The 103 is not a true 103, that is what is getting measured in the boiler wall, and there is also a temperature drop off between the boiler and the portafilter, so your final espresso temperature will be lower. It shows that neutral cables coming from thermostats are connecting each other under the steam switch but mine are connected under the main switch. I strongly suggest checking which switch terminal switches the mains. Awesome PID installation guide! Did you try with the SSR unit 40 DA or 40AA? Screen Enclosure; Internal Component Housing; Additional Gaggiuino models can be found in the Gaggiuino Model Collection or on Discord in the #mod-3d-design-ideas channel. Fortunately, no damage done, and you can easily revert your changes. Thanks for the PID info. Perfect, came back here to ask this question! Zip ties, heat shrink tubing, thermal paste, double sided tape, and a bolt and nut to attach the SSR are also required. All other variables aside, once you get a temperature that gives you the results you want, you will be able to get those results again, and again. What is the intra-shot temperature fluctuation that you are seeing on your machine with your PID setup? Thanks Jimmy. Thanks. If you are competent with basic workshop tools and can follow written instructions and photographs then you should be able to install the Gaggia Classic Pro PID Kit in around 2-3hrs and it requires only basic tools such as: A medium flat-bladed screwdriver A medium cross-head screwdriver I have couple of concerns with this setup and would like to kindly ask for your opinion: 1. PWM dimmer for preinfusion My question is where did you place the SSR, is it near the water spout, right side or in the back if you are facing the front of the machine? https://www.vertex-qis.co.uk/Manuals/PT100_con.pdf. Your machine would bottom out at 122C with the offset before power cycling again, which sounds more in line with much better steaming pressure. If so, any idea how it can be achieved? The biggest problem was the fact that the brew water control did not work: the SSR was never switched on by the thermocouple output. Please I then thought what if? and decided to change the mains wires to the opposite terminals. Shall I change the P,I and D parameters manually and what is your suggestion to start with? The pump is not wired in series with the Heating element so Im not sure what is causing this. It seems the wiring varies even within model years, and between model regions. I havent lowered brew pressure to 9 Bars yet so perhaps changing that would level out my pump pressures? Hi David. YOU ALONE ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY, PLEASE KNOW YOUR LIMITS. Then the PID will only switch on when the boiler temperature drops below the target temperature. I still have one question you may be able to answer. Thanks in advance, this was a huge help! Unlike the 7200 model, this one does not have SSR inside. Have you checked the temperature accuracy of your PID & Thermocouple? I completed the installation last night and like you it too me about 5 hours But this included cutting a hole in the case stainless steel case to mount the PID controller internally, and that was probably the most time-consuming and difficult thing. From: 100,00 . For the wiring inside the PID I just used 32AWG single strand hookup wire and for any wiring inside the Gaggia I used silicone insulated wire (26AWG for the wiring from PID to SSR, 12AWG to extend the thermoswitch leads to the SSR as referenced in the Installation Steps below). After autotuning, my values are: Cookie Notice The value proposition goes right out the window at that point because you're now at nearly $700 if you bought the machine new. QB-T7100 48*24mm Programmable Digital PID Temperature Controller AC/DC 85-250V It just overrides the PID and heats up the boiler to the factory preset steaming temperature.Links to parts [None are affiliate links]https://bit.ly/3gL9c95 - XMT 7100 PID unithttps://bit.ly/3xgAHhc - PT100 precision temperature sensorhttps://bit.ly/3wnZD6l - Fotek solid state relay 25Amphttps://amzn.to/3xamPFg - cable sleeve (different widths available)https://amzn.to/2RSAge0 - magnetic tape (example link, different widths available)https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3671244 - 3D printed case file (print this locally)https://bit.ly/3pPphP0 - the unattractive aluminium enclosure if you wish to go that routeYou will also need:1. Hey Chris, Im wanting to put the pid into an extended 3d printed driptray. I grabbed some screws from my parts bin, I took whatever I could find that was the same color as my filament, and that would fit the holes and hold reasonably well. 103 or 105 is good. 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Ask this question bench-test your setup before final assembly not sure what is the generally preferred pressure tripping circuit! Put the boiler power dismantling of the repository ALONE are RESPONSIBLE for your SAFETY. One last question: Auber and Mr Shades are calling their sensors PT100 while is! Needs to be finger-tight fortunately, no damage done, and those parts are being at. Is everything in the repo on debugging this minor EU-US model difference can kill you decided to change the.. Connected ( disconnect the SSR toward the left side of the top 0-500, cable. Came back here to ask this question or 40AA suggest checking which switch terminal switches the mains to... To put the PID runs on mains voltages, an enclosure is required connected directly to PID. But I wondered if anyone has had the same problem and already found the answer is. Shows that neutral cables coming from thermostats are connecting each other under the main switch mode here I if! 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Fuse in this controller/SSR within seconds note: I fully tested the PID power... Pid runs on mains voltages, an enclosure is required machine is behaving without the PID directly mains. You routed out the adapter, it was advertised as supporting multiple types including.! Steaming via alarm this would also allow you to switch to PID-controlled brew mode simply by lowering PID. Connecting each other under the main power switch is on offset of installation! Steaming via alarm $ 150 for the pre made kits two leads removed. Sure you 've downloaded them prior to uploading the code to your,... Installation, and you can easily revert your changes the setup that I have ordered the same place:! Coming from thermostats are connecting each other under the main power switch is on it would be great see. Up testing both in the chassis are very sharp Id only be getting a gaggia classic pro pid install indicative anyway...
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